Ushuaia (Tierra del Fuego Island), Argentina
by Paul H. Green
On the southern coast of Tierra del Fuego, squeezed between dramatic mountain peaks and the blue Beagle Channel is the island's largest and most attractive town, Ushuaia.
Ushuaia is the southernmost city in the world and one of two main cities on the island territory of Tierra del Fuego. Shared by Argentina and Chile, "The Land of Fire" features unforgettable scenery and trails of discovery framed by the sea, forests, lakes and mountains.
Despite the often bitter weather, this is a popular resort town and base for exploring the area. Its energy and faith in progress sets it apart from other towns from the South, with new buildings being flung up everywhere amongst mud and twisted trees. Two things are interesting to know about Ushuaia, since Argentina was eager to establish a city in Terra del Fuego, after it negotiated a split of the island with Chile, it guaranteed that those moving to Ushuaia would be paid three times the wages for any job in Ushusia or the rest of Argentina, and they would have no building codes or property control. To put it plainly, those willing to move to Ushuaia earned a lot more money, and could build how and whereever they wished. In ten years time it is now a city of 70 thousand, and has built from the mountain to the sea.
As a result, there is little historical charm left in Ushuaia. The main street is like an open air department store, with duty free electronic goods on display from the new Japanese factories set up nearby. One must look hard for places like the Café Ideal, which has an old-fashioned pioneering atmosphere. Nevertheless, Ushuaia's setting is majestic, with the wicked-looking granite peak of Mount Olivia dominating the skyline.
But an eager city full of youth, (Ushuaia really has no elderly people) is finding a growing tourist trade and multi-national hotel chains wanting to build at the end of the world. To say nothing of the fact the global warming is making the place nicer and warmer to live in, and a few ski slops and you have an amazing place as far off the beaten path as you can get. In fact, the path stops here.
On Beagle Channel, surrounded by water, sky and mountains, Ushuaia calls itself the End of the World. Cruise ships dock here for a quick on-shore visit. Summer is ideal for trekking, horseback riding, mountain biking, sport fishing and the most astounding tours along the Beagle Canal, Cape Horn and even the Argentine Antarctic.
Boat trips on the Beagle Channel pass islands crowded with sea lions and penguins, or scattered with the rotting remains of shipwrecked boats. And only an hour outside of Ushuaia is Pargue Nacional Tierra del Fuego, which preserves the sense of being at the end of the world; paths wind over spongy moss oozing cold water, past tough shrubs, thorny bushes and trees that have grown bent 45 degrees with the prevailing wind. A pleasant drive eastward along the Beagle Channel leads to Estancia Haberton, the first farm on the Argentine side of Tierra del Fuego set up by Reverend Thomas Bridges.
Places of interest include:
- Museo Territorial Fin de Mundo-
This museum has exhibits of natural history, Indigenous People and early Penal Colonies, and a recreation of an early general shop and bank
- Museo Martimo-
Displays a medley of exhibits on Ushuaia's extinct, indigenous population. Tierra de Fuego's navigational past, Antarctic explorations, and the life and times in an Argentine penitentiary.
- Presidio de Ushuaia-
Closed as a penal institution sine 1947, now a museum, is open to the public daily.
- Estancia Harberton-
The property was a late 19th century gift from the Argentine government to Reverend Thomas Bridges considered the “Father of Tierra del Fuego”. Today the ranch includes the oldest building in Ushuaia, which may be explored with a guide. The owners welcome you in their home, with a solid and tasty tea.
- Tierra del Fuego National Park-
While in Ushuaia don't miss Tierra del Fuego National Park. This protected land includes the beautiful Lakes of Fagnano and Roca, the Beagle Channel, and the southernmost sub-Antarctic forests. Explore the natural beauty -- horseback riding, rock climbing and diving.
- Train at the End of the World-
The three hour train ride which they call “Train at the End of the World.” A combo tour of bus and train will get you to the Tierra del Fuego National Park. You then ride the steam engine-driven Tierra del Fuego Southern Railway on a narrated journey across the Pipo River, stopping at the Macarena Cascade. The Park is beautiful with Indian camps and travel through the Canadon Del Toro.
The city at the end of the world has a great deal to offer all travelers, so plan to stay here a while.