Sitka- From Old Russian Alaska to Eco-Tourism Today
by Paul H. Green
The city limits of Sitka are huge, about half the size of New Jersey, and the town contains everything from bargain shopping to natural life that can be seen and photographed. Sitka, in the southeast region of Alaska is a little bit out of the way even for cruise ships, though they often go there. It is on the route of cruise ships coming up from Vancouver in British Columbia and going toward Seward in the Gulf of Alaska. Unlike other regional cities that are on the more sheltered side of the islands coming down the panhandle, it faces the open ocean. However, Sitka should not be missed due to its rich cultural heritage. It is the former capital of Russian Alaska, which was sold to the United States, and now a gateway to beautiful scenery and wildlife. There is lots of great fishing here and places to go to do kayaking and other water sports. The town historical and cultural sites can be viewed in one day and are definitely a must see on a trip to Alaska.
At the Sitka Historical Museum you can see the history of the predominant native tribe in the area, the Tlingits, who can still be seen today working on their native crafts and carving their totem poles. The museum gives you an excellent idea of the history of the region. There is also the Sitka National Historical Park, which was a fort of the Tlingit when they fought the Russians. The Russians were first defeated and all captured or massacred. Later the tables were turned and the tribe had to leave the area for twenty years or so. The Southeast Alaska Indian Cultural Center is now a center of native art work on not only wooden totem pools but also traditional carving of wood and bone, silver work and work with textiles and beads.
The Tribal Community House is a Native run operation that displays such arts as the telling of narratives and performance of traditional dance and music. Next you can visit building number 29 which is a surviving building from before Alaska was sold by Russians. There are still some original parts of the building; it is not merely a replica. Don't miss the outdoor display at Totem Square, a site that has cannon and anchors recovered from the Sitka area. The totem pole displays the double eagle of the Czarist era. Totem pole carving is a contemporary art that can reflect new events. That is why a totem pole on display can have a painting of Abraham Lincoln on the top of it from over 100 years ago. Historic churches include St Michael's. Though it was destroyed in a fire and later restored, it has many of the original religious objects that were recovered. The Sitka Lutheran Church, built in 1840, was the first Protestant church in the region.
Another lovely day or two can be spent in the Sitka area enjoying the outdoor opportunities for viewing the Alaskan rain forest and wildlife, including whale watching. You could spend your first day in Sitka viewing the historic sites, and then spend the next day hiking in the morning, and then spending your afternoon on a three hour or more kayak boating adventure, though at the end of the day you will be pretty sore unless that is your normal routine in your daily life. Hiking trails and wildlife are all over the place. From downtown Sitka, you can hike on the 4-mile Indian River trail which lets you see the Alaskan rainforest. The trail goes up quite a bit in elevation and ends in a waterfall. This is definitely a quick but rewarding sightseeing adventure. If you have more time there are other hikes up hills and mountains. Kayaking is a popular activity and the odds are good you will to see sea otters and other sea mammals on a short tour.
Another quick but fun day trip, to get a feel for the aquatic life, especially if you don't have the time or inclination to go kayaking, is to go to Whale Park, south of downtown Sitka, where you can expect to see whales. What will happen can be unexpected. Of course you would like to see a humpback whale jumping. The humpbacks feed at this site, but they are not union members, they don't necessarily perform everyday. If you can be in Sitka as late as November, there is a week-long festival called Whalefest. In addition to the usual fun and games, there are scholarly lectures on the preservation and observation of different whale species.
Cruises make the run along coastal Alaska from May to September, though there are some interesting activities continuing into the winter. May is the driest month in the year, where rainfall goes over 80 inches a year. Snow will fall, but it doesn't stay all the time on the streets, it can melt or be removed, since average low temperatures are only about thirty degrees Fahrenheit. Summer temperatures are fairly low, only normally reaching the sixties. For further information see www.sitka.org , the site of the Sitka Convention and tourist bureau. Also take a look at www.sitka.net/livewebcam.shtml for many scenic views of Sitka.